Traditional Japanese footwear: names, differences, and how to wear them

Geta, zōri, waraji, okobo… In Japan, every outfit has its pair of shoes, and every pair has its name. Confusing them is a bit like wearing sneakers with a tuxedo. Here are the names of all traditional Japanese shoes, what sets them apart, what to wear them with, and how to walk in them without twisting your ankle.

The 7 traditional Japanese shoes you should know

1. The geta (下駄), the wooden sandal

This is the most famous. The geta is a wooden board resting on two "teeth" (ha) that elevate the foot. It is worn barefoot with a yukata in summer, for festivals and fireworks displays. Its clacking sound on the ground, the famous "karan-koron," is one of the sounds of the Japanese summer. There are several variants: the classic hiyori geta, the very high ashida for rainy days, and the single-toothed tengu geta. Learn everything in our guide to the Japanese geta.

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2. The zōri (草履), the flat and elegant sandal

The zōri is flat, or slightly heeled, with no teeth. Once made of straw, it is now made of fabric, leather, or vinyl. It is the shoe for kimonos and formal occasions: weddings, ceremonies, New Year celebrations. It is always worn with white tabi socks. The modern flip-flop is often said to be its direct descendant.

3. The setta (雪駄), the men's zōri

The setta is a zōri with a leather sole, thinner and sturdier, sometimes with a small metal plate on the heel that makes a "clack" with every step. It is often attributed to the tea master Sen no Rikyū. It is mainly worn by men, with a casual kimono or jinbei.

4. The waraji (草鞋), the traveler's sandal

Made of woven rice straw, the waraji is tied with cords knotted around the ankle. It was the shoe of travelers, pilgrims, farmers, and walking samurai. Inexpensive and quick to wear out, travelers would carry several pairs. Today, it is mainly seen at festivals and worn by some monks.

Did you know? — Kon In Tokyo, at the Sensō-ji Temple in Asakusa, a pair of giant waraji measuring over 4 meters is suspended from the Hōzōmon Gate. They are said to frighten away demons: if they see such sandals, they'll think their owner is a giant!

5. The okobo (おこぼ), the maiko sandal

Also called pokkuri for the sound it makes when walking, the okobo is a very high wooden sandal, measuring up to 10 to 14 cm, often lacquered. It is worn by maiko, Kyoto's apprentice geishas, and by little girls during the Shichi-Go-San festival. Its height requires taking very small steps, which is part of their graceful appearance.

6. Tabi (足袋), the split-toe socks

These are not shoes, but it is impossible to talk about the others without them. Tabi socks separate the big toe from the others to allow the strap to pass through. White for kimonos and ceremonies, colored or patterned for more casual use.

For zōri and kimonosWhite Japanese Tabi Socks€29.99View

7. Jika-tabi (地下足袋), the work tabi

These are reinforced tabi with a genuine rubber sole: a shoe in their own right. They are seen on construction sites, worn by rickshaw pullers, gardeners, and mikoshi shrine bearers during matsuri festivals. Their shape has inspired several fashion designers.

The summary table

Geta, zōri or waraji: what's the difference?

The easiest way is to look under the sole:

• Two wooden teeth under the sole? It's a geta, casual and for summer.
• A flat sole, often covered in fabric or leather? It's a zōri, more formal.
• Woven straw and cords around the ankle? It's a waraji, the walking shoe of the past.

Above all, remember this: geta is to yukata what zōri is to kimono. This is the basic rule that all Japanese people know.

Why a strap between the toes?

The V-shaped strap is called the hanao (鼻緒). It holds the shoe only by the front of the foot, with no heel or counter. As a result, you can slip your pair on and off in a second, which is very convenient in a country where you take off your shoes when entering every home, temple, or traditional restaurant.

It is also because of the hanao that Japanese socks have a separate toe: with regular socks, the strap simply won't fit through. A hanao can be adjusted: if it is too tight, you can loosen it by gently pulling it up and to the sides.

Did you know? — Kon In Japan, a hanao that breaks while walking is an old omen of bad luck. Don't worry: it is a superstition, and a well-maintained hanao can last for years!

Which Japanese shoe with which outfit?

To learn more, read our article what shoes to wear with a kimono.

How to wear Japanese shoes properly in 4 steps

1. 1Slide your foot in halfway: the hanao fits between the big toe and the second, without pushing the foot all the way to the bottom of the strap.
2. 2Let your heel hang out a little: with geta, it is normal and even elegant for the heel to hang out by 1 to 2 cm at the back.
3. 3Take small steps, feet slightly turned inward, placing the sandal flat rather than rolling your foot like with a sneaker.
4. 4Get used to them gradually: wear your geta for an hour at home before wearing them out for a whole evening.

Kon's advice For your first pair, I wouldn't recommend the tallest geta: they look stunning in photos, but they're a real balancing challenge. Go for low geta or zōri, and save the tall styles for when you've got the hang of them!

5 mistakes to avoid

• Wearing socks with geta and a yukata. You wear them barefoot. Tabi socks are for kimonos and zōri.
• Wearing zōri with regular socks. The strap won't fit: you need tabi socks.
• Choosing a pair that's too big. Japanese sandals should fit fairly snugly, with your heel slightly hanging off the back. If they're too big, they'll clatter and make you stumble.
• Keeping your shoes inside. In Japan, you take off your shoes at the entrance (genkan) and store them with the toes pointing toward the door.
• Taking long strides. With geta or zōri, taking smaller steps is both safer and more elegant.

How to choose your pair

Size. Japanese sizes are often given in centimeters based on foot length. Measure your foot from heel to big toe and compare it with the size guide on the product page. For geta, don't add any extra room, as your heel may hang off the back.

Height. The taller the geta, the more striking it is, and the more practice it requires. For walking around for long periods, choose a low sole.

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The hanao. A soft, padded strap reduces friction between your toes, especially when barefoot.

Usage. For around the house or at the beach, a modern geta or simple zōri will do. For a ceremony, choose understated zōri and white tabi socks.

Frequently asked questions